Volvo’s 3.0 T6 engines are beautiful sounding 6 in line engines with a turbo. These T6 engines or B6304T are very good for getting a little more power than the standard 285hp or 299hp which are supplied by Volvo as standard in the V70, XC70, S60 or S80. By replacing the original downpipe with a larger 3.5 inch downpipe from LucaCarMods, there is approximately 10-15hp extra power to be gained and a better sounding Volvo!
Replacing the downpipe with a Volvo T6 engine where the car is equipped with AWD is a challenging task where some knowledge of cars is required and you need good tools. Prefer to perform this upgrade on a lift.
In this guide you will see step by step what it takes to replace the downpipe of a Volvo T6 engine.
Duration: 4-5 hours
Step-by-step plan and equipment for replacing the T6 downpipe
To carry out this repair, you need at least the following tools:
- socket set/wrenches set with at least 1 additional extension
- Spanner set
- Dremel with grinding disc (if the nuts on the exhaust are rusted)
- Axle stands
- Jack the car up and provide
a safe workplace It is important that there is enough space under the car so that you can lie underneath it yourself to disassemble the downpipe. To create a safe workplace under the car, it is important that your Volvo is in gear or P, the handbrake is put on and it is on axle stands.
- Remove the battery, air filter and plastic parts around it
Modern Volvos have very full built engine spaces, especially the T6 engine because this is a cross-placed 6 in line engine. For this reason, you can only reach some bolts from above and it is necessary to remove the battery, air filter and the parts around it. With a flat screwdriver or cap 7, the hose clamp can be detached from the air filter, sensors are still attached to the air filter, the plugs of which need to be unplugled. The entire air filter housing can then be removed from its rubbers with a small jerk. Next, it’s the turn of that battery and battery tray. Both battery poles can be detached with stab key 10; next to the battery on the left is a long pin that keeps the battery in place, unplug it with cap 10 so that the battery can be removed. If it’s all right, look at an empty battery container which is stuck with 3-4 bolts. Also remove these from the car by loosening the bolts with cap 8. Please note that these bolts can be slightly rusted, make sure the cap is good on them so they don’t spin crazy!
- Detach the downpipe from
the exhaust The next act takes place under the car; namely splitting the exhaust and downpipe of your Volvo. This is often easier said than done because the nuts are often completely rusted away… If you’re lucky, you can easily pull them off with a cap and rattle, if you don’t use this luck then (gently) use the dremel to sharpen the nuts.
heat shield To get to the nuts that connect the T6 Volvo downpipe to the KKK turbo, a heat shield has to be released which goes over the catalyst. These are 3 bolts and a clip of which 2 are easily accessible from below with a stab key and the other bolt and clip must be approached from above. You can unplug it with cap 10.De upper bolt you will have to find on the touch by holding your hand behind the engine block where the battery has just been disassembled.
- Remove 2 bolts
from the catalyst The catalyst is attached to the engine block with bolts in the B6304T engine, which ensures an extra long life of the downpipe because it has less stress on it. However, it is much less pleasant to disassemble the downpipe. These bolts also need to be removed via the “inspection hatch” where the battery used to be. Personally, I found this to work best with a 3/8 rattle, this one is handy but you can put just enough power to get them loose. These two bolts are at the spot where the clip used to sit to hold the heat shield.
- Remove lambdasonde plugs and remove the nuts from the downpipe
The end is beginning to come into view. First, unplug the lamdasone so that they are not damaged later during disassembling the downpipe. From under the car the 4 nuts with which the downpipe is attached to the turbo can be seen clearly, again there is another trick to loosen the nuts. Preferably, you’ll need an extra set of hands from a friend, your wife/husband or anyone else for this step.
The top one can be added quite easily with a stab key or rattle, the front bottom is a bit more of a challenge but you get out of that pretty quickly! The real challenge is in the nut at the bottom which direction the engine block is, this is only going to get out the next way.
Grab a 1/2 rattle (the big one) with 2 long extensions and a knee piece, then tape the knee piece so that it is still slightly agile but not limp. This whole construction must then go from above to the “inspection hatch” where the battery sat along the engine block to the turbo. The simplest is when a person is under the car and gives clues about where the ratchet should go. With this solution you should be able to loosen the nut within 5-10 minutes. Please note that this nut only needs a few strokes loose!
If you only try this, you’ll probably do it, but it can take 30+ minutes to untie the last nut of the Volvo downpipe.
- Remove the 3.0 T6 Volvo downpipe from the car
Now that all the nuts of the turbo are loose (all but the last one) the downpipe can be removed from under the Volvo with T6 engine. Since all Volvos with a T6 engine are equipped with AWD, the diff and drive shaft are quite in the way. Disassembling and manouvring the downpipe along these parts can also take some time. Make sure you don’t damage the lambdasonde! What makes the whole thing a lot easier is to sharpen the bracket at the catalyst (the one with which you screw it to the engine block with 2 bolts). This gives you a lot more freedom of movement.
Upgrade your Volvo T6 with a 3.5 inch downpipe
By default, the downpipe of a Volvo T6 engine has a short bend that has the diameter of about 3 inches. This is quite hefty for a factory downpipe but unfortunately the party is over immediately because the original catalyst follows and then the downpipe goes to a much smaller size. From a cost and sound, this is a logical decision for Volvo, for the Volvo enthusiast who wants to get more power and sound out of his/her Volvo T6 engine, this is of course less beautiful.
LucaCarMods.com is currently developing a full 3.5 inch downpipe which will feature a High Flow Race Catalyst.
3.5″ downpipe: more power, better sound and MOT worthy
A 3.5″ downpipe has already proven itself several times on the Dyno (power bank) to add up to 15HP power on a Volvo B6304T T6 engine. Moreover, it also sounds very nice!
What we think is important in LucaCarMods.com is that the downpipe does not cause any problems at the MOT either. Achieving the MOT standards should not be a problem thanks to the 200 cell catalyst.
The choice in material is 304 stainless steel which has a high-quality appearance and will also last for a very long time.
In mid-April, the 3.5″ downpipe will be available on our webshop.
Frequently asked questions:
The first time you’re doing this for about 4 hours.
Basic tools such as a key set, caps set and a jack with axle supports is enough.
Usually about 10-15hp!