Description

Very stable motor mounts with double bushings per side because these motors can handle very high torque.
The brackets are made with multiple holes along the length to easily adjust how close the engine is to the bulkhead/front beam, and yet you can easily disassemble and reassemble the engine in exactly the same position as before.

You need a custom sump pan. We chose to start with a caterpan sold by Summit Racing, part number SUM-G3610.
Copies can also be found on Ebay (see photo with dimensions).
This sump pan is very low but still has a good oil volume.
Because it is so low, the engine gets to a good height without the pan coming under the front beam. It is also affordable.

You have to grind down the subframe to fit the caterpan (see photo), or modify the sump pan, or move the engine so far back that you have to remove the gearbox tunnel.
We sell a ready-made plate for this purpose (LINK to AS-001019-02). The depth depends on where you place the motor.
The photo shows approximately the deepest you need to cut out.

If you use a pickup engine, e.g. LM7, you can only use the high intake if you don’t have a “Flatnose”.
Otherwise, take the intake from a car with a V8, say from a Corvette or a custom intake.

The steering column ends at the driver’s side exhaust ports. If you want to drive without a turbo, you need narrow headers.
For example, molded headers available from a few different manufacturers. When converting to turbo you usually pull the pipes forward and then it’s not a problem.

Bolt on Gearbox bracket for GM’s gearboxes can be found here (AS-002009-01)

They are made of 5mm high strength steel plate and are galvanized and black passivated.
A set of engine mounts consists of: engine mounts incl. bushings and all screws/nuts required for mounting in beam and motor

Manual: AS-001020-01 MF 740-940 – LS